Fashon retailer G-Star has published its research so far in exploring the potential use of greenhouse-grown cotton in its products.
The ‘Homegrown Denim’ “experiment” is looking at how the business could use greenhouse-grown cotton to reduce the environmental footprint of cotton farming worldwide while also helping it in its ambition of making “the best denim possible”.
According to G-Star it is engaged in making more sustainable denim for the jeans it makes and sells, and it has teamed up with Dutch Cotton – a company that grows cotton in sustainable greenhouses – and Wageningen University & Research to accelerate this mission.
Over a six-month period, the retailer and its partners studied a crop of greenhouse-grown cotton plants at a research facility in Bleiswijk, the Netherlands. Quality, yield, and fibre properties were examined, while comparisons with traditional methods of cotton production were made relating to environmental footprint of the work.
As Rebecka Sancho, head of sustainability at G-Star, said: “Our curiosity and drive for innovation led us to this partnership to study the feasibility of growing cotton in a greenhouse.
“This groundbreaking experiment could revolutionise cotton cultivation by severely decreasing water consumption and land use, eliminating chemical pesticides.”
Overall, the conclusion made to date is that growing cotton in a greenhouse provides a controlled and protected environment that boosts crop productivity and sustainability, and lowers the risks that come with outdoor growing.
G-Star’s eight listed benefits of greenhouse-grown cotton, in its own words, are:
- Increased yields: greenhouses boost cotton yield potential, with plants growing up to four metres tall and producing five to 23 times more cotton.
- Extended growing season: controlled environments in greenhouses enable cotton harvesting until for longer than usual.
- Weather protection: greenhouse-grown cotton is cleaner and whiter, with minimal contamination, and is shielded from weather damage.
- Pest and disease management: enclosed environments naturally deter pests and diseases, eliminating the need for synthetic pesticides.
- Water efficiency: greenhouse systems can save up to approximately 95% of water per kilo of cotton by using recycled rainwater for irrigation.
- Soil conservation: substrate cultivation is soilless and therefore prevents soil erosion, preserving fertility and health without compromising quality.
- Localised production: greenhouses support local economies and sustainability by minimising transportation needs and enhancing community resilience.
- Prolonged plant lifespan: greenhouse environments enable multi-seasonal plant cultivation, improving sustainability and productivity.
As part of the project, G-Star joined forces with local suppliers to create a locally-sourced and manufactured jean, which it said resulted in reducing the supply chain distance to just 644km. According to the retailer, all aspects of cotton processing and production of the garment was completed within the Netherlands – from ginning (separating cotton from its seeds) and spinning to weaving, sewing, dyeing and finishing.
Along the way, G-Star said it used electric vehicles between local suppliers, as it experimented on how it could reduce its environmental footprint further. The business is calling this work “just the beginning of a promising journey towards more sustainable cotton growing”, but it is now in phase two of our Homegrown Denim project which entails looking at practical cotton cultivation and scale-up production.
G-Star wants to enhance cotton yield per sq m from 1.2 kg to 2.2-2.5kg. If it gets to this level, the stated next steps could be inviting other industry stakeholders to join forces, co-invest, and move this experimentation forward.
[image credit: Green Retail World]







1 thought on “‘Homegrown denim’: G-Star explores opportunities in greenhouse-grown cotton”
That is probably one of the best bits of work I’ve seen a fashion brand do in a very long time. Thanks for this update, Ben!