Next, Primark and Tesco are among the retailers backing a new initiative from environmental action NGO Wrap to transform the UK’s textile collection system, as mounting costs and falling resale revenues put pressure on the sector.
The Textiles Collections Transition Programme aims to keep more used textiles out of residual waste and dry mixed recycling, preserve their value through reuse, and improve the supply of material for fibre-to-fibre recycling.
Research by Wrap found nearly half of post-consumer textiles are disposed of in residual waste, with its 2024 report estimating that 546,000 tonnes of textiles are binned by UK households. The NGO estimates that 1.45 million tonnes of post-consumer textiles arise annually, equivalent to 21kg per person.
The programme brings together retailers, brands, local authorities, charities, collectors, sorters, recyclers and waste management companies to develop solutions across the supply chain. Next, Primark and Tesco have funded its first phase, which has produced a report, Transformative Practice in Textiles Collection, identifying existing good practice and potential ways to improve collection systems.
Catherine David, CEO of Wrap, said: “Transforming textile collections is an industry-wide challenge that no organisation can solve alone. By investing in this programme, Next, Primark, and Tesco are showing the leadership needed to move from ambition to action and help build a system that works for the whole sector.”
Jo Mourant, head of sustainability at Next, said the programme can “drive progress across the industry”.
Nicholas Lambert, head of circularity and materials at Primark Cares, added: “Primark is proud to be working with Wrap to help develop an industry-wide approach to the important issue of used textile collection. We recognise that effective collection systems are a critical foundation for a more circular fashion industry. By improving our understanding of how post-consumer textiles are collected and managed, we can help unlock greater value from existing materials and accelerate the transition to a more circular fashion ecosystem.”
Katherine Organ, sustainability manager for non-food at Tesco, remarked: “By supporting Wrap’s Textiles Collections System Transition Programme, we are bringing organisations across the value chain together to develop practical, scalable solutions that improve collections, keep materials in use for longer, and unlock greater reuse and recycling across the UK.”
The programme is built around three priorities: encouraging people to make better donation and disposal decisions; creating a fair, transparent and financially sustainable collection system; and improving the quality and affordability of material supplied to fibre-to-fibre recyclers.
Wrap says the current system faces significant financial challenges. The price per tonne of post-consumer textiles sold through charity shops reportedly fell from £375 in January 2024 to £70 two years later, while the annual cost of collecting and sorting worn-out textiles is estimated at £88 million.
Revenues from reusable clothing are increasingly insufficient to cover the costs of handling non-reusable material, according to the NGO.
The programme will now move into stakeholder workshops to develop a co-designed blueprint for action, due to be published in spring 2027. Wrap is also seeking partners for Collective Action Projects to test and scale solutions.
The initiative complements the UK Textiles Pact, which focuses on circular product design, durability and business models. Wrap is also exploring opportunities to adapt its work for the EU and US markets.
[image credit: Green Retail World]
