M&S, which has a beauty takeback scheme in 100 stores, is focusing on using recycled materials in products

Material gains? M&S sides with Circulose to reduce reliance on virgin materials

Marks & Spencer (M&S) has become the first UK brand to join next-generation materials provider Circulose as a scaling partner – thanks to the tie-up, the retailer will integrate material from 100% textile waste into select lines.

In a move to a more circular model for producing garments, the partnership will reduce M&S’s reliance on virgin fibres and – in its own words – “accelerate the shift to circular design at scale”.

Circulose, under the ownership of investment firm Altor, which acquired assets of the collapsed Renewcell business for an undisclosed fee in June 2024 before renaming the organisation after its hero product, already works with H&M Group and Mango.

The focus now, in its new guise, is on brand partnerships, using a new pricing model, and offering expanded support services. Brands are now required to license Circulose to access the fibre, in the hope of reducing pricing friction and driving adoption at scale.

Circulose is produced through a patented process that transforms discarded textiles, including production waste and textiles that can no longer be resold or used, into what it describes as “high-performance material” with the aim of easing pressure on forests and land and reducing emissions traditionally associated with fashion production.

Katharine Beacham, head of sustainability & materials in fashion at M&S, commented: “Partnering with Circulose allows us to put the concept of circular design into action and will be an example of how the industry can move from small-scale pilots to incorporating next-generation materials at a greater scale.

“By integrating circular materials into our sourcing strategy, we will be reducing reliance on virgin fibres, cutting waste, and helping to build a fashion industry that’s fit for the future.”

Reflecting on securing M&S as a partner, Jonatan Janmark, CEO of Circulose, said: “Their leadership in sustainability and commitment to circular fashion plays an important role in accelerating adoption of next-generation fibres.

“This partnership is one of several we are building with leading global brands, with more set to join soon.”

The M&S-Circulose tie-up comes hot on the heels of Nike talking about a “shift in materials strategy” after securing a multi-year partnership with textiles-to-textiles recycler Syre earlier this month.

And last month, US outdoor equipment retailer REI announced a partnership with Ambercycle, which calls itself a leader in molecular regeneration, involving REI using the next-gen materials company’s Cycora regenerated polyester in its products.

[image credit: Green Retail World]

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